North of Suakin there is the Sanganeb National Park close to Port Sudan. It is possible to take a line from the jetty that goes to the Sanganeb Reef and Lighthouse where there is excellent snorkelling on the reef. Anchoring on the very foul bottom is not recommended. A visit to the lighthouse is also possible and souvenir T-shirts can be purchased there.
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Reported by Kay Finley:
Entry into Suakin was made so easy by working with Mohammed, the local Agent, who we had been in contact with, prior to arrival.
On arrival, we got no response when we called Port Control on VHF channel 14, but we proceded to the anchorage.
Mohammed came to see us on the boat with the health official for our PCR tests, took our passports, crew list and 2 passport photos.
When he came back next day with our Sudan cruising passport, we were free to go ashore.
He also brought a Sim card and some local currency to get us started.
Amazing service and a lovely man who understands cruisers needs.
The total cost for clearance was $250 which includes the Agent fee of $50, port fees, and the shore passes plus a sailing permit that allows you to stop in different anchorages heading north.
After we checked out of Suakin, we had to come back in after a couple of weeks because of engine troubles, and we had to pay the $200 again, because we had already checked out. But we found a good diesel mechanic here, through Mohammed, so it was worth it.
There is no PCR test here. They accept the results of the previous port.
While in Suakin, Mohammed brought Jerry cans of fuel out to the boat plus huge blocks of ice when our fridge broke down, at no extra cost. He also brought out a fridge specialist, who got our fridge working again.
He is the best Agent we have come across by far.
He is honest, a real gentleman and understands cruisers needs.
We are still in Sudan, in Marsa Oseif, waiting for weather to continue heading north, and Mohammed is still helping us with our Sim card top ups.
Sudan is such a bleak barren coastline, but we have found some really nice safe Marsas to anchor, on the way north.
We spent 3 weeks in Suakin. We used Mohammed’s services and paid 130 dollars including the shore pass for a week, check in and check out. We have renewed the shore pass 3 times for $ 10 more per week.
Mohammed does a lot of services but does not forget that he is very expensive. He changes the dollars into a pound ($ 1 = 30 pounds) but his exchange rate is not good. It is better to wait for Port Sudan and at the black market, you change from $ 1 to 38 pounds. On more than 100 dollars the difference is very important.
The bus to Port Sudan costs 15 pounds and lasts 1 hour. Another important thing, Mohammed will sell you diesel but very expensive at $ 0.7 per liter – while at the pump it costs only 4.22 pounds or $ 0.1 per liter. We went directly to the gas pump and took a taxi to get the diesel delivered. For 300 liters the difference is huge.
We only paid the equivalent of $ 30 (1266 pounds), Mohammed asked for $ 210.
Do not believe Mohammed if he tells you that buying gasoline without him is forbidden. This is false. The gas market in Sudan is free and we have asked the police for confirmation.
Mohammed was not happy, but too bad for him if he earns less money. Lying is not good.
I hope that in the future he will lower his tariff. Finally, You can fill your gas bottles in the souk in Port Sudan.
Posted on behalf of SY Tamarisk:
Port Suakin, Sudan – addition of Mohammed’s phone number (+249 912 142 678) and strong suggestion to get a sailing permit there before proceeding up the coast behind the Sudan reefs.
Aggressive militant navy people near the Egypt border can be pacified using the sailing permit and some cigarettes.