Nosy Boraha, previously known as Île Sainte-Marie (and still popularly known by travellers as such), is a large island off the east coast of Madagascar.
The port and main town of Ambodifototra is located on the sheltered southwest side of the island.
The channel between Nosy Boraha and Madagascar is a popular place for whale watching, as substantial groups of humpback whales migrate from the Antarctic here to breed.
17° 00.22' S, 049° 50.84' E (anchorage)
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By far the most difficult check in anywhere I have been. As I only speak English, it would have been impossible if I had not found (after being here 3 days) a tourist that spoke both English and French came with me. The process is:
Go to the police. They looked at my documents but signed and stamped nothing, and collected no money. I was directed to the airport, 12 km away. Took a tuktuk (taxi) to the airport. No police there but was told they would be soon. The bartender speaks English and was able to help a bit. After an hour, the same officer as before , with some others arrived. I was taken to the gate for arriving flights, and they printed a visa and affixed it to my passport. I paid 70000ar and was told to go to Îsle Madame to see “contribution.” At contribution I paid another 100000ar, and another sticker was affixed, showing the 100000 payment. Then, back to the police, who finally rubber stamped and signed the passport. Then back to Îsle Madame for customs and the coast guard. I did not get and no one seems to think I need a clearance or cruising permit to sail to nosy be. Hopefully that is the case, as we leave Sainte Marie today.
Where I ended up with trouble was with finding the contribution office. Initially, no one could tell me where it was, and I was directed to the customs office. I left customs and the coast guard being told everything was done and fine. But it seemed that I should get a date stamp in the passport, so when I met another tourist that spoke English we compared passports, and then she came with me to the police who explained to my new best friend the rest of what I needed to do.
The contribution office is on the same road as the coast guard , South 100 meters or so. But none of customs, contribution, or coast guard are staffed. You wander the island asking people until someone knows who works there and finds them for you. You must be able to speak French for this. There is no way around that.
Maybe nosy be is easier. If it is English only speakers should go there.
Otherwise, I love Sainte Marie and highly recommend it.
domander says:
Sep 27, 2018 02:34 PM
The 30-day visa into Madagascar is no longer free. As far as we can tell we were treated fairly in all of our dealings with the officials when we cleared into Ambodifotatra.
First, we went to the police station who act as Immigration. The 30-day visa cost 115,000 Ariary each person. We paid this to the officer plus 40,000 for a taxi. He took the passports, and one copy of our two copies of the exit zarpe (clearance) from Réunion. We went back at the time he suggested the next day and he returned the passports with the visas attached. I don’t know where the copy of the Réunion exit paper went… he said it is no longer required.
We still DID have to go to Îsle Madame (the fishing harbour) to see the Customs office. This is well within walking distance for this old geezer. It is in the first building you come across, like an abandoned hotel. The office is in the west wing, access from the north, outside. There we filled in a crew list/boat info sheet of paper and paid 60,000. We asked him if it was really necessary to visit the Coast Guard office just 20 metres away to the west and while considering it finally said we should.
There at the Coast Guard, we paid another 60,000 and filled out another vessel and crew info sheet.
That is what is required to check in when asking for a 30-day visa. I’ll come back to post again when we check out domestically on Monday to tell you what we did.
SY Keyif anchored in 17 0 215S 49 50 819E, close to Ilot Madam, on August 25, 2016.
We stayed there for nearly 10 days, during strong southeasterlies. It is good holding, with very little to no swell.
There is a submerged steel buoy at 17 00 1945S 049 50 8482E. Take care, don’t hit it!
Immigration, customs and port police formalities are easily finished in a couple of hours. Take the dinghy into the ferry port, and tie to the small wooden dock, you must use a stern anchor. The wooden dock has a corrugated roof and a wooden door. Nobody touches the dinghy. Walk straight ahead, you will see the patisserie Choco Pain where there is good bread. Take the road next to the Choco Pain and the police are 200 meters on the right.
Customs and port police are on Ilot Madame, take the dinghy to the broken down concrete wall in front of the old colonial style building with brown columns. Better to use the stern anchor.
Il Aux Nattes is the most beautiful spot to visit. It is possible to anchor in front of the entrance to the lagoon between Ile Sainte-Marie and Il Aux Nattes, at 17 5 551 S 49 48 553 E in 4 meters, all sand bottom. Slight to moderate swell, not uncomfortable. Take the dinghy ashore and visit Il Aux Nattes. The fishermen warned us to lock the outboard engine at night.
As a final comment, even though it rains often, and is a bit cool sometimes, we think Ile Sainte-Marie, aka Nosy Boraha, has been a great introduction to Madagascar, with its friendly people, modest town, beautiful landscape, and the possibility to interact with the community here.